The Festivals of Kirtipur

The Festivals of Kirtipur

Kirtipur is a town built in the traditional Newari style — thick clusters of houses. Each cluster is a “neighborhood” centered around an open area called a tole. There are several toles in Kirtipur town and each has its own shrine to the elephant-headed god Ganesh, lord of good fortune and remover of obstacles.

The most important tole is called Layaku tole. It was the town’s center during the Malla period and here the colorful jatras and public functions are still held. Many of the festivals to Kirtipur’s gods and goddesses include festive processions — each follows its own traditional path through the byways of the old town.

Bagh Bhairav Jatra is performed on the first day of the month of Bhadra (August/September). An image of Bagh Bhairav, especially made for the festival, is carried through the streets with traditional bands, drummers and dancers, followed by devotees chanting bhajans and kirtans. The procession winds through the streets along the borders of the ancient principality of Kirtipur.

Indrayani jatra is held every year in the month of Marga (November/December). Indrayani is a mother goddess much honored by the Newar people. During this festival, the people of seven surrounding villages participate. The image of the goddess is carried in a palanquin through the streets of the upper half of the town, starting from Deodhoka Indrayani Tole and ending in the wide square of Layaku Tole. Indrayani’s palanquin is preceded by another small palanquin of Ganesh, the god of wisdom and success.

Buddha Jayanti is celebrated every year on the full moon day of Baisakha (April/May). On this day Buddha was born in Lumbini, about 300 km. southwest of Kathmandu Valley. This festival is celebrated with great joy by the Buddhist people of Kirtipur. In the morning a procession goes through the streets of the town to Chilancho Vihar to pay homage to Lord Buddha.

Gai Jatra, the Procession of the Cows, is observed for three days in the month of Shrawan (July/August). Cows, or children dressed as stylized cows, walk with small family processions through the streets. Families who have lost a loved one participate, for the sacred cow will lead the deceased person through the Gates of Judgement. Among the smaller summertime festivals held in Kirtipur is the festival of Gathu Pyakhan, the festival of gardener, which takes place once every twelve years! A unique custom prevalent in Kirtipur during the summer festival season is that of feeding the frogs, called in Newari byan ja nakegu.

Kirtipur, with its temples, stupas and colorful festivals, is in many ways the model of a traditional Newari town. It is unique in that it sits atop a hill, for most old towns were built on plateaus above flowing rivers. Thus hilltop Kirtipur has perhaps the best Himalayan views than any town in the Valley. From its highest point, the Uma-Maheswara temple at 1418 meters, gives an enchanting view of the Valley. From the west to the east one can see Ganesh Himal (7606 m), Langtang (7234 m), Gauri Shankar (7134 m) and Cho Oyu (8201 m), among many. In clear weather even Mt. Everest ,(8848 m) is visible in the east.

Kirtipur can be easily reached within half an hour by hiring a taxi from any place of Kathmandu city. Taxis can go up as far as Bagh Bhairav temple in the heart of the town. There is regular bus service from Ratna Park to Kirtipur, though the buses are often quite crowded. Conducted tours can also be arranged by travel agencies. One of the nicest day walks of the Valley is down the hill from Kirtipur and through the fields to Kathmandu, crossing the Bagmati river at an old foot bridge. You might want to divert to have a look at the Kirtipur campus of Tribhuvan University, Nepal’s largest educational institution. The walk takes a couple of hours.

Kirtipur, easily accessible from Kathmandu, is a place to see and understand the traditional life of the Newars, the old people of the Valley. The town is full of life from sunrise to sunset. One can see womenfolk washing their clothes and utensils by the stone-lined ponds. Nursing mothers sit along the streets enjoying the warm sun. At harvest time the squares of the town are a beehive of activity as jyapus (farmers) sort, dry and thresh their crops. Chillies, onions and garlics hang from the windows of the old houses.

Kirtipur is a unique place, a place of history, of working people and of fine temples and sculptures. Looking from Kathmandu, you can see it there in the south, sitting on its hill. And Kirtipur looks down, upon the changing, growing Kathmandu Valley, watching the history of the Valley roll by beneath the unchanging curtain of the Himalaya.